Vitamin C and Its Derivatives

Vitamin C is most often known as Ascorbic Acid,L-Ascorbic Acid.It’s pure,100% authentic, and helps you achieve all your vitamin C dreams .This is vitamin C in its purest form,the gold standard of vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is the most biologically active of all the derivatives, making it the strongest and most effective in terms of antioxidant abilities, reducing pigmentation, and boosting collagen production,but it’s ofen more irritation with more dosages.

The pure form Vitamin C is known to be very unstable during formulation, and not tolerated by all skin types,especillay the sensitive skin, due to its low pH. This is why its derivatives are introduced to the formulations. The Vitamin C derivatives tend to penetrate the skin better, and are more stable than pure Ascorbic Acid.

Nowdays,in the personal care industry,more and more Vitamin C derivatives are introduced to the personal care products.

1.Cosmate®THDA,Tetrahexyldecy Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C. It helps support skin’s collagen production and promotes a more even skin tone. As it is a powerful antioxidant, it fights free radicals that damage skin. Cosmate®THDA,Tetrahexyldecy Ascorbate gives you all the benefits of vitamin C without any drawbacks of L-Ascorbic acid. Tetrahexyldecy Ascorbate brightens and evens skin tone, fights free radical damage, and supports our skin’s collagen production, while being extremely stable, non-irritating, and is fat-soluble.

2.Cosmate®MAP,Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble Vitamin C form which is now gaining popularity among manufacturers of health supplement products and experts in the medical field following discovery that it has certain advantages over its parent compound Vitamin C. Cosmate®MAP is classified in general as a salt and is commonly used in the treatment of Vitamin C deficiency signs and symptoms. Although Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is widely used in the treatment and prevention of various skin health conditions, modern studies show that it may provide many other benefits due to its antioxidant effects,also used to make health products containing magnesium ascorbyl phosphate supplements.When taken in the form of health supplements, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is believed to help enhance body’s detoxification process, thereby cleansing body cells from damaging toxic compounds and preventing development of toxin-associated disorders. It is also believed that Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate supplementation may enhance wellness by activating several patterns and processes in the human body.

3.Cosmate®SAP,Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate derivative of vitamin C, acts as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent. It assists against excess sebum build-up and suppresses natural melanin. It aids photo-oxidative damage and offers good stability benefits over ascorbyl phosphate as vitamin C carrier.Cosmate®SAP,Sodium  Ascorbyl Phosphate is stable.It protects the skin, promotes its development and improves its appearance. It stops melanin production by inhibiting activity of tyrosinase, removes spots, lightens skin, boosts collagen and scavenges free radicals. It is non-irritant, perfect for anti-wrinkle and anti-aging applications and hardly change its color.

4.Cosmate®EVC,Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is considered to be the most desirable form of Vitamin C as it is highly stable and non-irritating and hence readily used in skincare products. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is the ethylated form of ascorbic acid,it makes Vitamin C more soluble in oil and water. This structure improves the stability of the chemical compound in the skin care formulations because of its reducing ability. Cosmate®EVC,Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is an effective whitening agent and anti-oxidant that is metabolized by the human body in same manner as regular vitamin C. Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant but cannot be dissolved in any other organic solvents. Because it is structurally unstable, Vitamin C has limited applications. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid dissolves in a variety of solvents including water, oil and alcohol and therefore can be mixed with any prescribed solvents.

5.Cosmate®AP,Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. Unlike ascorbic acid, which is water-soluble, ascorbyl palmitate is not water-soluable. Consequently ascorbyl palminate can be stored in cell membranes until it is required by the body. Many people think vitamin C (ascorbyl palminate) is only used for immune support, but it has many other important functions.A major role of vitamin C is in manufacturing collagen, a protein that forms the basis of connective tissue – the most abundant tissue in the body. Cosmate®AP,Ascorbyl palmitate is an effective free radical-scavenging antioxidant which promotes skin health and vitality.

6.Cosmate®AA2G ,Ascorbyl glucoside, This is the least stable among the derivatives, is a novel compound that is synthesized to increase the stability of Ascorbic acid. This compound shows much higher stability and more efficient skin permeation compared to Ascorbic acid. Safe and effective, Ascorbyl Glucoside is the most futuristic skin wrinkle and whitening agent among all the Ascorbic acid derivatives. Cosmate®AA2G ,glucoside is a derivative of ascorbic acid, easily soluble in water. Ascorbyl glucoside is a natural vitamin C that contains glucose stabilizing ingredients. This ingredient allows vitamin C to be easily and effectively used in cosmetics. After creams and lotions containing ascorbyl glucoside are applied to the skin, ascorbyl glucoside is by the action of alpha glucosidase, an enzyme present in the skin cells In the cell membrane, this process releases vitamin C in a highly biologically active form, and when vitamin C enters the cell, it begins its pronounced and widely proven biological response, resulting in brighter, healthier, and younger-looking skin.

It’s well known that a high concentration of an active ingredient does not mean a better care effect. Only the careful selection and the formulation adapted to the active ingredient ensure optimal bioavailability, good skin tolerance, high stability, and the best possible product performance.