|Skin Care Ingredient Science Series| Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide (The panacea in the skin care world)

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 (VB3), is the biologically active form of niacin and is widely found in a variety of animals and plants. It is also an important precursor of the cofactors NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). Together with reduced NADH and NADPH, they act as coenzymes in more than 40 biochemical reactions and also act as antioxidants.

Clinically, it is mainly used to prevent and treat pellagra, stomatitis, glossitis and other related diseases.

most important role
1.Skin brightening and whitening

Nicotinamide can down-regulate the transport of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes without inhibiting tyrosinase activity or cell proliferation, thereby affecting skin pigmentation. It can also interfere with the interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes. The cell signaling channels between the cells reduce melanin production. On the other hand, nicotinamide can act on already produced melanin and reduce its transfer to surface cells.

Another point of view is that nicotinamide also has the function of anti-glycation, which can dilute the yellow color of protein after glycation, which will be helpful for improving the skin color of vegetable-colored faces and even “yellow-faced women”.
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When niacinamide is used as a whitening ingredient, at a concentration of 2% to 5%, it has been proven to be effective in treating chloasma and hyperpigmentation caused by ultraviolet rays.

 

2.Anti-aging, improving fine lines (anti-free radicals)

Niacinamide can stimulate collagen synthesis (increase the speed and amount of collagen synthesis), increase skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has antioxidant properties that neutralize free radicals and slow down the aging process of the skin.
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Studies have shown that using nicotinamide (5% content) can reduce wrinkles, erythema, yellowing and spots on aging facial skin.

 

3.Repair skin barrier function
Niacinamide’s repair of skin barrier function is mainly reflected in two aspects:

① Promote the synthesis of ceramide in the skin;

②Accelerate the differentiation of keratin cells;
Topical application of nicotinamide can increase the levels of free fatty acids and ceramides in the skin, stimulate microcirculation in the dermis, and prevent skin moisture loss.

It also increases protein synthesis (such as keratin), increases intracellular NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate) levels, and accelerates keratinocyte differentiation.
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The ability to improve the skin barrier function mentioned above means that niacinamide has moisturizing ability. Small studies show that topical 2% niacinamide is more effective than petroleum jelly (petroleum jelly) in reducing skin water loss and increasing hydration.

 

Best combination of ingredients
1. Whitening and freckle removal combination: niacinamide + retinol A
2. Deep moisturizing combination: hyaluronic acid + squalane